Anyone that knows me knows that I love a good driving holiday…
Flash back to July 2020 when I had a very detailed 28 day road trip planned for South Africa. I was heading from Johannesburg, across to Kruger NP, then down along the coast to Cape Town.
As all of our 2020 stories went, that trip didn’t happen. Then along came 2024 & an opportunity to travel to Namibia with Bench Africa. Finally, my much awaited first trip to Africa!
For those who don’t know Bench Africa, they are Australia’s oldest Africa travel specialist. They have been at the forefront of curating exceptional journeys & exploration opportunities with thrilling wildlife adventures & immersive cultural experiences. They work locally with the most dedicated teams in each country they travel to & a portion of the money you spend with them goes back into local communities & conservation funds. This is the main reason I love sending my clients to travel with them. You also receive beautifully presented itineraries & gorgeous safari travel documents in the mail which feels more personal (for bookings valued over AUD15k per room) rather than a simple PDF emailed out to you like most companies do these days. I am excited, so let’s go!
28 Nov – Fast forward a few months & the time had finally come to depart Hobart. With a transit through Melbourne I spent my time in The House by Aspire Lounge. This lounge is a lot smaller & was more peaceful in comparison to other lounges I’ve been in. There seemed to be more space, more spread out, or more room to relax. They had a great toddler/kids play area in it’s own closed-in section & also a separate meeting space you could book separately. So if you were travelling with a big family or group of friends you could have your own private room. I arrived just in time to be advised about their 3 course a la carte lunch that was to be served at 3:30pm. The menu was decent. I chose the Seasonal Tomato, Mozzarella & Rye Salad, Pumpkin Ravioli w/Braised Eggplant, Gorgonzola Cheese & Rocket, then the chef’s selection of seasonal cheeses, quince paste, water crackers & dried Australian fruits (which I may have already have had a plate of earlier!) If you have to, paying for lounge access is worth the peace of mind & rest between flights. A thing that stops a lot of people from leaving home is the long amount of time in the air & in airports. Did you know it’s the same amount of time to fly direct to Johannesburg as it is Los Angeles or San Francisco? But people seem to think flying to the USA is easier than Africa, go figure!
I like trying out different airlines so this time I thought I would fly with Etihad (FYI their current Velocity partnership with Virgin Australia ceases 31 May 2025) They were great to fly with but I must say the meals out of Australia were slightly nicer than on the way home. Not that you really need to eat on the way home after the 12 day feast you’ll have on your Safari. I was flying economy so when you do your check in online with Etihad, you have the opportunity to grab the extra legroom seating, and also the ability to block out the seat next to you or the 2 seats next to you if you want a row to yourself (when the flight isn’t full). This was approx AUD70-80 per seat per flight. I almost did it and then at check in they recognised my airline status so I had that done for me complimentary (Amen!) It has only taken me 55 million flights to get here so I was happy with the perk! The internet inflight was okay but it’s not turned on until you are up in the air so if you had to work while flying you could (note: check aircraft type before departure to see if you have wifi as it’s not available on all their planes)
As it turned out, around a month before travel they changed my original flights so I now had to leave 2 days earlier & have 2nts in Johannesburg, instead of flying straight through to Windhoek. A fellow PTM Dionne had mentioned the Airport Game Lodge which was close by so that is where I booked my stopover. Communication with them was clear & precise via WhatsApp messages. Arrive & collect luggage, walk outside & find pillar 7, then message for collection. The lovely Louise came to collect me & you would never have guessed that she has only been in the hospitality industry for a few months. She’s a natural. She’s very friendly & welcoming & honestly couldn’t do enough for you. They’ve recently opened a kitchen & the chef is doing a great job, really delicious & cheap meals. This stop also gave me the opportunity to visit the Apartheid Museum, Nelson Mandela’s house and also go for a walk around Soweto & meet with some of the locals. A few of my group had significant schedule delays so I wouldn’t advise people to fly straight through Johannesburg without a stop. It’s definitely worth stopping for a visit. I was happy to do the Apartheid Museum on my own as I cried for the first part. Growing up in the early 90’s in Australia & leaving high school in 93/94/95, we were taught a lot about what was happening at that time in South Africa. I’m sure it’s made a significant impact on my life growing up, with an open mind and respect for all people. It is still hard to believe what was happening on the other side of the world at this time, and in some instances what is still happening today.
These days went quickly and it was time to return to the airport for my flight to Windhoek. Once at the airport I met another lovely lady in our group, Carolyn from VIC, and we hung out waiting for our flight together. Our tour leader extraordinaire Maria from Bench Africa, whom I was yet to meet, had connected us all in a WhatsApp chat group so up until this point, day 4 since I left home, I never once felt like I was travelling alone. Solo travel in Africa is becoming more common, with increases to more solo female departures each year. Bench Africa currently have an amazing Explore Kenya – Escorted Ladies Tour if you have any interest. They are also now working on one in Namibia as well so I can’t wait to share that with you! (TBA)
As our plane descends towards Windhoek, the vast, arid landscape unfolds beneath us like an endless, golden sea. The earth is a patchwork of muted browns & dusty oranges, stretching far beyond the horizon where the sky meets the land in a flawless, unbroken line. The flatness is both mesmerising & humbling—sporadic hills in the distance look like tiny mounds, no valleys, just the vast emptiness, seemingly infinite. Dry riverbeds snaking 
through the terrain like ancient scars. It’s a landscape of stark beauty, where the silence of the desert echoes across the expanse, giving you the sense that you’re flying into a place untouched by time itself. After stepping off the plane, a fair way down the runway & into a very warm 30+ degree day, I’m not really sure where I am anymore… I think I was expecting an Airport the size of Johannesburg, not Hobart! A quick line through Customs then we were greeted & whisked away from the tiny airport by the lovely Jerome from Ultimate Safari’s Namibia. On the 40 minute drive into town he’s a bit hesitant giving us any information, he tells us his team mate Johann will correct him if he is wrong, and he doesn’t want to be wrong. So he avoids the possibility of being wrong & tells us every tree we can see all around is an Acacia, so that is now the running joke for the whole trip. So many Acacias!
Moving forward over the next 12 days, a special mention to our fellow travel buddy, Gai. She made a note of our observations & dated everything as we went. The items listed below were the first sightings & dates, not necessarily the only sighting of that species/plant. We learned quite a lot having Gai in our Troopy, she asked all the questions… Thank you from all of us Gai, you made it the best days ever!
Our first dinner all together
1st Dec – 1nt Galton House, Windhoek
We arrive to a warm welcome at Galton House, cold towels, welcome drink & we are advised who our roomie would be for the trip. The lovely Amber from QLD doesn’t realise what a lucky person she is, sharing a room with me (snore snore!) We were then asked to peruse this evenings dinner menu where we all select the local Kudu for our main meal that night. Don’t get me wrong, there are some amazing vegan/vegetarian options available on this whole 12 day itinerary but truth be told, it is also a carnivores dream! With a couple of hours free to unpack, freshen up & relax by the pool before our 6pm Gin tasting (which you can imagine I DID-NOT enjoy at all!) shortly followed by our first dinner together in Namibia. Then there were 8 of us!!!
The central hub at Galton House
Not being used to this temperature, a few of us (most, if not all of us) decide to relax poolside with a cool local ale & pinch ourselves yet again, are we actually here?!? Galton House consists of 9 bedrooms, perfect for friends & family. We did not have it exclusively, there were 2 other couples staying with us but the large open dining & lounge spaces allows everyone to have their own privacy, or interact with other guests if you would like to.
Dining tip: I’m not sure how they prepared the Kudu but it was one of the most amazing meats I have ever eaten. At home you can tell if you’re eating venison or something will have a game sort of taste but this didn’t. Nicer than any steak I’ve ever eaten, but maybe I’m still dreaming…
Note: You could maybe add another night here if you want a day to unwind from International flights but as we had a stop in Johannesburg 1nt pre-tour was enough on this trip.
2-3rd Dec – 2nts Camp Sossus, Sossusvlei
We depart Galton House & head over to Ultimate Safari’s Namibia Headquarters. Here we meet the team behind the scenes that put the itineraries together for us & our clients. This is not something our clients would do but a great experience in itself for us, to see all the action first hand, the real people face to face & not via an email. So much care is taken here in several different departments. You’ll be pleased to know they have an emergency ‘while you wait’ package if your luggage is lost or delayed. A cute bag with a change of clothes & necessities to keep you going for 24-48hrs. In saying this, I don’t recommend losing your bag!
Time passes quickly with a Troopy full of chatterboxes, passing some donkeys & carts along the road in the middle of nowhere, some people walking from farm to farm, then before long we arrive at
Conny’s Coffee. The last thing you think you will encounter on the road between Windhoek & Sossusvlei is a cute little coffee shop. Conny has hung her coffee making mitts up around 8 years ago and the lovely Günter has found his calling & stepped in.
We stepped out of the car to see a solar cooking camp oven set up that was incredible. Half a day to cook in the sun, which would never happen in Tasmania where I’m from! We went inside under the veranda where we had a lovely local girl called Lucy brewing up our coffee for us in the most fascinating way ever. It’s definitely worth pulling in the driveway to visit. We had our picnic lunch here & Lucy gave us some of the home made ice cream she’s been making. A relief on this very hot day. We took a walk around to see their garden before heading back out onto the road to our next stop at Camp Sossus. Along the way we saw many Baboon, our first ground squirrel & various birds. We were lucky to have lovely Gai from QLD with us taking extensive notes. There were so many animals I still can’t believe how lucky we were to see them, and to have our scribe, Gai!!! 
The sight of Camp Sossus is welcoming and we are happy to be greeted yet again with cold towels & welcome drinks while the guys carried our bags to our rooms for us. This camp is run by all men and they do an amazing job! We had another 5 star gourmet dinner followed by some star gazing around the camp fire. We were lucky to have Zebras & Oryx come right up to our rooms but we were all too busy talking & too relaxed to bother about taking photos. It was a great day. Of a night you have another bed up on the roof of your room so you can sleep under the stars. Amber and I had in turns stargazing to give each other some space & my favourite night was laying there watching the stars & satellites go by. Best day ever!
Sundowners at Camp Sossus
The next morning we had a trip to Deadvlei, an incredible
landscape with white clay soil & black tree skeletons scorched by the sun, together with the vast orange dunes, it was incredible! We had a tough choice to make, either walk up Big Daddy to a certain height on top of the dune or meander over the smaller dunes straight to the flat clay plans & mummified trees. Carrying a Vegas dancing knee from 2 weeks prior it was an easy answer from me, I took the low road!
It was around 36c degrees outside so even the ‘easier’ option didn’t feel that easy. There is plenty of space & markers to rest
for those that are physically challenged (like myself – haha!) but take your time, go early in the morning & you’ll be fine. You’re in the desert man, heaps of space to rest lol! After this adventure, our amazing guide Johann took us over to some tables under some shady trees & whipped us up a pretty epic gourmet brunch. Pretty sure I had a beer I was so thirsty but we also had champagne (and water, tea/coffee etc) & endless supply of fruit, salads, meats & cheeses, plus he was cooking us up some eggs & sausages as well! He is the man! That is for sure!
Note: Maybe the only thing I’d do differently here was add an early morning hot air balloon ride if you have the time. This was approx AUD800 to add to an itinerary & the scenery is breathtaking.
What we spotted here:
4-5th Dec – 2nts Brigadoon Boutique Guesthouse, Swakopmund
How much rain? (thanks Carolyn for the photo)
Our drive towards the coast today takes us through a little town called Solitaire & is famous for its apple pie (no we weren’t hungry, yes we did try it!) They have a great rain gauge out the front with a whopping 3mm of rain on the 3rd of Feb 2024 & that had been it the whole year until our arrival on 4 December. Yes, I did buy some beautiful souvenirs here! Then a short stop at the Tropic of Capricorn sign for a photo op. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere we passed 2 people on bicycyles, I’m not sure how you would have enough water on a bike to survive a day but I guess they had it all planned out!
Once we reached the west coast of Namibia we had a 2nt stay at Brigadoon Boutique Guesthouse in Swakopmund. It was comforting to see some green lawns on a property after the desert & also a decrease in temperature by about 15 degrees! This residence had 7 bedrooms & had a nice colonial/country cottage feel. There wasn’t really a lounge space so you wouldn’t really hang out here of an evening, you’d head out into town or relax in your room. A beautiful space for breakfast/brunch or afternoon tea. We had beautiful breakfasts here each day & amazing dinners at Tug on the wharf on the first night. The 2nd night we went to Brewer & Butcher, a local small batch brew bar (as you could imagine I didn’t like this much at all). This would be a fun town to come back to for Oktoberfest I imagine.
The day tour I chose here was a half day on a Catamaran. Gai & I did this together & met some friendly Seals, Pelicans and saw around 300,000 seals in the bay & on the beach. They said there’s usually only around 200,000 but there were so many fish in the bay this season & obviously a great breeding season. The babies that were only a few days old sounded like little lambs being weaned from their mothers. A little bit of PTSD for me after working in the shearing sheds lol! It was a Flamingo lovers dream & we even had a whale out of the water a couple of times to say hello.
Swakopmund was established as a main harbour & is a popular beach resort area, characterised by 19th century German colonial architecture.The town is based at the mouth of the Swakop River & in English Swakopmund means ‘mouth of Swakop’! There you go! The day we left we stopped to visit Two Beards Coffee then drove up the coast to see an old shipwreck then inland to Uis, home of the coldest most delicious beer in the world at the Cactus & Coffee Teagarden UIS. Note: If I could go back here I’d have another night or two and do a 4wd dune safari and maybe another tour along the coast further south.
6-7th Dec – 2nts Onduli Ridge, Damaraland
Sunrise from bed on the deck at Onduli Ridge.
Most definitely my favourite property, Onduli Ridge. 
Our room overlooked a long open plain, etched with what seemed like tiny rock piles in the distance, but were small rocky hills. Our beds rolled out onto the deck, waking up to the most incredible sunrise. Once we were unpacked and refreshed we had sundowners on the deck just past the pool, a beautiful outlook across the area we had driven in. It was a perfect evening. We’d arrived on pizza night so dinner out under the stars with wood fired pizza, wines and beers, all while talking about our day and what we were going to do tomorrow. 
The following day was a highlight for me. We were up early to drive to Twyfelfontein to see the largest concentrations of petroglyphs (rock engravings) in Africa, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then onto the beautiful Desert adapted Elephants of Damaraland, that I could’ve sat and watched all day. I probably have the least amount to say here but the best experience. The staff are incredible & did I mention an in house spa as well for all your treatments??? Plus they do your washing for you!!! It has everything you need.
You-just-need-to-go!
Note: if you have an extra night here you can also do a Rhino Game Drive in the morning. Plus if you have a special occasion or group of 6 people, check out the Onduli Enclave #lush
What we Spotted here:
8-9th Dec – 2nts Anderssons at Ongava, Ongava Game Reserve
We arrived at Anderssons and once again greeted by cold towels and welcome drinks, it was another warm day & Amber & I were lucky enough to have the closest room to the…. bar lol! 
This place was incredible with a waterhole out the front of the main dining area & the only game hide we saw at any of the camps/lodges. The entrance was between the main dining/bar area and our room. You have a first hand look directly out of the bunker to the animals at the waterhole. A great concept. We went on a game drive this afternoon with the guide from Anderssons and were in our first open sided safari vehicle. We saw so many Rhino’s it was
incredible. (One morning we woke up to a beautiful sunrise & 8 lions out the front of our room!!!)
The following morning we head out with our guide Johann, for a full day in Etosha National Park. And what an incredible day it was. From the moment we began our game drive, watching the sunrise as we drove to the park gates, the land seemed alive with the heartbeat of nature. 
The vast, sun-kissed plains stretched endlessly around us, and with every passing minute, another remarkable creature emerged from the savannah. The excitement was palpable, with our first honey badger darting across the path, fearless and full of energy, immediately setting the tone for the day ahead. We were again reminded how lucky we were to have Gai onboard taking notes. Each new sighting brought its own thrill. We marvelled at the regal Kori Bustard strutting his way across the landscape, the largest flying bird in Africa, and watched in awe as the Northern Black Korhaan displayed its remarkable calls. Birds of every color and shape filled the sky—Purple Rollers painted the air with their vibrant hues, and Egyptian Geese waddled gracefully along the water’s edge. The mammals we encountered were just as mesmerising . Blue Wildebeest huddled under a tree, while the Red Hartebeest posed proudly in the open grasslands. 
We had the rare privilege of witnessing the majestic Angola Giraffes towering through the trees, their long necks grazing on the acacia leaves. And of course, the lioness with her two cubs was a breathtaking highlight—watching them laze around in the shade of a tree in pure wonder, a reminder of their raw beauty in the wild. The day unfolded like a beautiful dream—full of surprises, breathtaking moments, and unforgettable memories. Etosha truly is a sanctuary of life, you would not believe 40% of the park is a salt pan, it is a place where every turn offers a glimpse of the extraordinary. 
Each sighting was a reminder of the incredible diversity & majesty of life at Anderssons & in Etosha, a time that will stay with me forever. We even got to experience a bit of a sand storm, strong winds and rain for about half an hour at Anderssons. It nearly blew us away but was fun to watch from under shelter.
What we Spotted at Anderssons & Etosha:
10-12th Dec – 2nts Okonjima Plains Camp, Okonjima Nature Reserve
Leaving Anderssons was sad but alas, all was forgotten once we called in to visit the Omutima Himba Village.
Visiting the Himba village was an experience that left me deeply moved & awed by the strength & beauty of their way of life. As we stepped into their world, it felt as though we had been transported back in time, to a place where connection to the land & one another is paramount.
Omutima Himba Village
The vibrant red ochre that adorns the skin of the women, glowing like a reflection of the sun itself, symbolizes more than just beauty—it’s a testament to their rich cultural heritage & deep spiritual beliefs. It gave me a greater appreciation of my home in Australia.
The Himba people welcomed us with warmth, their eyes full of stories & wisdom, their lives woven with traditions passed down through generations. The main leader of their tribe, maybe too much warmth, he wanted to know where all our husbands were, lol! 
The women, with their intricate jewellery & braided hair, exuded a quiet grace, as though every movement was an expression of their deep connection to the earth & their ancestors. The children, curious & eager, ran barefoot around us, their laughter as they tried on our hats & sunglasses to have photos taken then looking at their own selfies. I imagine it would be like magic to them. Even though there were only 38 people in this small community, what struck me most was the sense of resilience that filled the air. In a world so often driven by haste & materialism, the Himba live with a profound sense of purpose, honouring their customs, their ancestors & the land that sustains them. Our time with them was a reminder of the importance of simplicity, of living in harmony with nature & of cherishing the bonds that tie us together. Leaving the village, I carried with me a deep respect for their way of life and a heart full of gratitude for the privilege of witnessing a culture so rich in history, beauty & wisdom. Thinking back on that now at home, I realise how much ‘noise’ we have in our lives & how much we need to let go of. Stop needing ‘stuff’, stop wanting so much & just appreciate our surroundings more. I’ve always been one for minimalism, you can learn so much by being quiet & just watching…
Our route on the trip, we covered 2,550km in total over the 12 days
Once we arrived at Okonjima we were met by friendly staff yet again and bags taken to our rooms. This was probably the busiest and largest of all the accommodation places we’d stayed at because everyone is here for the AfriCat Foundation Conservation visits. We had around 30 people staying here the same time as us but the restaurant, outside dining area and 2 pools is plenty of space for everyone. We had an evening game drive that day with Martin as our guide and our 2nd outdoor safari vehicle without windows! This is what I had came for, to see the Leopards in this park, we had the most exciting afternoon and even a bit of rain which was hilarious trying to unfold the sides of the vehicle in a 5-10 minute torrential downpour. AfriCat operate one of Namibia’s Longest-running Leopard Monitoring Projects – I hope you enjoy the video of our afternoon. The following morning we were off to visit the Cheetahs. I’m a little bit torn here as once these beautiful creatures live out their lives the property are not bringing any more into their nature reserve. The current ones have been here for 13-14 years at present, so with a 16 year life expectancy you really need to go in the next year or two to enjoy their presence in the reserve.
What an unforgettable adventure! An extraordinary journey into the heart of Namibia’s wild landscape, which seems to stretch on forever. Every twist and turn along the dusty tracks revealed another stunning creature, each encounter a new chapter in this untamed story.
The thrill of spotting our first honey badger—fierce and determined as it dashed across the landscape—was an instant highlight. We were fortunate enough to witness the fascinating behavior of so many animals, from the impressive herds of wildebeest roaming the plains to the sleek & elusive leopard moving stealthily through the grass. Each animal seemed to embody the raw spirit of the wild, from the warthogs with their comical snouts to the striking Hartmann’s mountain zebras with their bold black-and-white stripes. The diversity of wildlife was astonishing. Birds darted above us, their colours vivid against the endless blue sky, while we marvelled at the impala grazing gracefully & the waterbucks by the waterholes. Each animal we encountered seemed to hold a piece of this magical landscape, adding to the symphony of sights and sounds. It was a day of discovery, of awe & of profound connection to the natural world.
What we spotted here:
12 Dec – The Sad Goodbye
Sundowners after Leopards in Okonjima
People always ask me where is my favourite place I have ever travelled to, or where would I go back to if I could pick one? I’ve always loved every place I’ve travelled to & I’ve never had an answer, until now! The answer is Namibia. I didn’t think I’d love the animals so much, the people so much, their way of life so much. I love the outdoors & vastness & the never ending roads, and especially the calm. Truly one of the saddest days of my life, saying goodbye to my new travel buddies, our guide, and Namibia with all that it has to offer. Bench Africa & Ultimate Safari’s Namibia have exceeded our expectations & have gone above & beyond for us throughout the whole trip. The 12 days have flown by and we were never left wanting anything. Our guide & hosts at each lodge went out of their way to do every little thing possible for us, it looked effortless for them, it was seamless from start to end. But sometimes I felt like I should be helping or I needed to be doing something (relax Angela!) Not that I felt we were ever demanding, we just had so much fun. A lot of people travel as couples or families, which is fine, but I think this is the sort of trip that would be enjoyed as we did, with other friends, or friends you haven’t met yet. New people to travel with. At first you may take a day or two to relax & unwind but once you have you’ll wish you were staying for longer.
So, listen to my tips, book the extra nights, travel solo to meet new friends or with other friends and most importantly, SAY YES TO EVERYTHING! Make this the best trip of your life too.
Travel with Bench Africa & Ultimate Safaris Namibia
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Phone: +61477083307
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