The Marlborough Sounds is like being immersed in a postcard of New Zealand. The air is fresh, the water’s cold and the scenery is magnificent at every turn. Where the bush doesn’t meet the sea there are sandy beaches and bays to lower the anchor, pull up the kayak or unlace your boots and stop for lunch. You can paddle or sail, hike or bike, fish or dive, or maybe spend the day on the mail boat delivering essentials to the residents. It’s a quiet part of New Zealand, the locals like it that way.
The Queen Charlotte Track has put the Marlborough Sounds on the global hiking map – it’s a 72 kilometre well maintained trail, a walking history lesson of early New Zealand. There is evidence the Maori people lived in Totaranui (the Māori name for Queen Charlotte Sound) for some 800 years before Captain Cook arrived in 1770. Captain Cook used Meretoto/Ship Cove as a base for his South Pacific explorations. There’s an excellent static display there to understand the history of the area before you start the walk towards Anakiwa.
Image right: Meretoto / Ship Cove, start of the Queen Charlotte Track Hike
The day we began our Queen Charlotte hike was the day after a cyclone had swept across Marlborough. There’d been driving rain all night. Any apprehension about what lay ahead disappeared when a pod of papahu/dolphin arrived and frolicked beside our water taxi as we sped out to Meretoto/Ship Cove, starting point for our hike. Māori legend tells us the papahu/dolphin represents protection for travellers; it was going to be ok.
The track was wet and very muddy when we started but, as proved on every day of the hike, when we arrived at our accommodation for the night, we were fine. A hot shower, roaring fire, friendly hosts, Marlborough wine and gourmet meals are the perfect end to a day of hiking – and that’s what we had every night on the Queen Charlotte Track! It’s my perfect holiday!
Image right: Picnic lunch on the Queen Charlotte Track
I took 5 days / 4 nights to walk the Track. In hindsight, I’d spend another day just relaxing at one of the boutique accommodations, or maybe add a day kayaking! You can choose to hike guided or unguided. I suggest going guided for the story telling, experiences and knowledge a guide adds. A local guide knows every inch of the track, the history (Māori and European), the flora, the fauna, the locals, and they boil the billy in the most picturesque spots!
Most of the lodges are accessible by walking, water transport or helicopter only. If you prefer not to hike to your lodging, you can be met in Picton and whisked away to the serene Lodge of your choice. You’re able to relax and do as much or as little as you want – the food and wine will always be fabulous.
For families, a holiday in the Sounds is an opportunity to get away from screens and back to playing in the great outdoors. At family friendly places like Lochmara Lodge there’s a nature and art trail, a chance to spot local sea life in the underwater observatory, feed the resident stingrays, go star gazing and glow worm spotting at night, and spend the days bush walking or paddling in kayaks – no time for screens.
Image right: Hammock at Lochmara Lodge
My favourite luxury getaway in the Marlborough Sounds is Bay of Many Coves Resort. It’s tucked away in the native bush, overlooking the bay.
Start the day with a sunrise walk up to the waterfall behind the resort. End the day with dinner at the award winning Foredeck Restaurant (with Marlborough wines of course) and a soak in the hot tub under the stars. The days can be as busy or as quiet as you choose; there’re walking trails, fishing charters or sailing trips, spa treatments, swimming with dolphins and many more excursions the friendly staff will organise. Or, just relax and soak in the serenity. You may never want to leave.
If you’ve made it to the end, thanks for reading! I hope you’ve enjoyed my journey through the Sounds. Creating memorable holidays in New Zealand is what I do, ensuring my clients make the most of their time in Aotearoa, land of the long white cloud. The third part of the Marlborough series includes the many wine experiences on offer in the heart of New Zealand’s wine country.