I am standing on the deck of Holland America’s Zuiderdam with my mum, watching Vancouver fade into the distance behind us. We are both feeling excited, relieved and somewhat bewildered at finding ourselves here.
A trip to Alaska was not on my radar. It was certainly on my bucket list, but at some unknown point in the future. For my elderly mum, it wasn’t even on the bucket list. In her words, it was “beyond the bucket list” as she couldn’t imagine how it would be possible. When Holland America Line kindly invited me to join them on an Alaskan cruise, I couldn’t resist.
After a week in Vancouver, embarkation day finally arrived. We had been staying just near the cruise terminal, and could see the Zuiderdam waiting there for us.
We had to provide a supervised RAT two days prior, and I can’t tell you the relief we both experienced upon receiving a negative result. That was probably the most stressful part of pre-boarding. The actual embarkation process was quite straightforward, but took time. The trick is to ensure you have completed all required paperwork and apps prior to embarkation. I was advised to use the VeriFly app as well, and it did make the Holland America part of the process much quicker. Going through US Customs, though…that is always going to take time!
Finally we made it through US Customs, and suddenly found ourselves walking the gangplank and being warmly welcomed onto the ship.
Top tip: Ensure sure you have printed copies of all your documents just in case you are unable to access the information on your phone.
Once we found our room and unpacked we made our way to the Sea View Bar at the rear (or aft) of the ship for the Sail Away Celebration. The ship left the pier so gently that we didn’t even realise we had started our cruise!
There was a great atmosphere on board; music playing, drinks flowing, sunshine and a group of excited passengers cheering as we sailed under the Lions Gate Bridge and began our cruise adventure.
There are several dining options on board, and for our first night we had booked dinner at the Pinnacle Grill.
This is a specialty dining option that has a small cover charge, but what a meal! To complete the scene, we even had humpback whales showing off beside the ship while we ate. Incredible!
An evening stroll around the Promenade Deck gave us the perfect sunset to finish the day.
A lazy start to the day with a delicious breakfast delivered to our room. How often can you enjoy a breakfast that someone else has prepared for you with a beautiful view out to sea? Oh, and the local porpoise were frolicking in the water beside us too.
Today was about exploring the ship and discovering all it has to offer…and there is a lot! I will talk more about shipboard life later, but suffice to say that you could spend all day doing as much or as little as you wish. I had wondered if a sea day would be a bit slow but somehow the day just disappeared. It was a truly relaxing day.
Enjoying the views
There were also some presentations about Alaskan life to enjoy if you wished.
This one was on the Iditirod Trail Sled Dog Race.
This evening is a “dressy” evening, of which there are two during the cruise. It included the Captain’s Welcome, where he introduced key crew members and we all enjoyed a toast.
The nightly turndown service was excellent. You never knew quite what creature you were going to find on your bed! There was a copy of the next day’s program (which was also available on the Navigator App) along with any extra relevant information.
We are in Alaska!
We woke up to views of snow-capped mountains and the moodiness of heavy skies as we continued our cruise up the Inside Passage.
Gradually signs of civilisation emerged as we drew closer to Juneau, and I could feel the excitement building in anticipation of our first port of call.
Juneau – the capital of Alaska – was cold and wet, but still lovely to wander around and explore…but that could wait. We were here to see a glacier! Imagine having a glacier less than 20 minutes’ drive away from town. Well, that’s what it is like in Juneau; the Mendenhall Glacier is only a short coach trip away. It is an impressive sight, even when trying to hide behind the fog and mist. Mum and I firstly made our way to the excellent visitor centre, partly to learn more about the glacier and surrounds, but also to shelter from the rain. The centre offers a wealth of information and fantastic views of the glacier.
Eventually we decided we were going to have to take a walk in the rain if we wanted to truly enjoy this glacier, as the weather was not going to improve for us. It would have been incredible to see it on a clear day and be able to truly appreciate how big it is, but it was still impressive, and the fogginess created a surreal atmosphere.
There are some great walks to do here too. We walked partway to the Nugget Falls, simply enjoying a nature so different from what we have at home. I especially loved discovering forget-me-not flowers growing as wildflowers. I have always loved these flowers (but my husband hates them due to how easily they invade our garden at home), so it was a delight for me to see them. I later discovered they are the state flower for Alaska.
We prebooked the trip to Mendenhall Glacier as a shore excursion via our Holland America Line Navigator app, which made it nice and easy.
After exploring a bit more of Juneau, it was time to return to the ship to enjoy a cheeky drink to celebrate our first day on Alaskan soil. We then settled in on our verandah to watch Juneau gently slip away, and savour a great day.
I felt like we had found ourselves in the midst of a movie set while walking through Skagway. This is one quaint, old-world American frontier town that was built during the Gold Rush era, and it was fascinating to wander around. The real highlight, however was to be found on the nearby train tracks.
Prior to leaving home, it had been recommended to me to go on the White Pass Summit Scenic Railway. I am so glad I listened as this is absolutely a must-do. The railway is an incredible feat of engineering, built in 1898 to support the Gold Rush. The scenery it provides is breath-taking and travelling in the vintage carriages only adds to the atmosphere.
You can enjoy the view from the comfort of your seat, or go outside and stand on the platforms between the carriages for a more exhilarating experience. It is easy to spend all your time taking photos in a vain attempt to capture the incredible scenery, but a camera will never to justice to it. Eventually I just put the camera down and soaked it all in.
Top tip: choose to sit in the last train carriage – you will get excellent views from the viewing platform at the rear of the train.
The ship certainly is an imposing sight!
The views were too good to ignore, so I settled in on our verandah in my pjs and a blanket to just absorb the beautiful landscape. So nice having a private viewing space!
Everyone onboard had been anticipating this day, so when we woke up to find it foggy and rainy…let’s just say the mood was decidedly gloomy. We didn’t think we would be able to see any glaciers, and that was a very disappointing thought. After all, isn’t that what you cruise the Inside Passage for?
Holland America Line does Glacier Bay incredibly well; even when the weather is not so kind. The local National Park Ranger boards the ship early in the morning to provide commentary and presentations throughout the day. He is available for a chat and to answer any questions you may have. There is also a naturalist on board conducting wildlife spotting. The bow deck (front) of the ship is opened up to provide additional viewing, and to top it off delicious Dutch Pea Soup is served on all outside decks to help warm you up while trying to absorb the spectacular sight before you.
And what a sight is was. Firstly we saw the incredibly blue Lamplugh Glacier.
Enjoying heart-warming Dutch Pea Soup in the rain.
We can’t quite believe what we are seeing!
We then made our way to Margerie Glacier:
One incredible hour was spent soaking up the magnificent view.
Pieces of the glacier were calving and making quite a loud crash as they fell into the water.
The icefloe only added to the atmosphere, providing rafts for the local wildlife.
We were even able to enjoy the view from the comfort of our own private verandah.
This is a day I will never forget, and worthy of honouring with a drink in the Oceans Bar.
The sun is shining! Finally we have warm weather in which to enjoy Alaska.
Our final port was beautiful Ketchikan.
This town has the largest number of totem poles in Alaska, and is also known as the Salmon Capital of the World. To me, it is simply a lovely place to explore. We booked the “City Highlights, Totems and Creek Street by Trolley” tour, and I am so glad we did. It took us to areas we would never have reached had we just walked around.
It was fascinating learning the stories and symbolism contained in the totem poles.
Historic Creek Street is must-visit area of Ketchikan. The old red light district is built on a boardwalk over Ketchikan Creek, and is home to restaurants, souvenir shops and gorgeous old timber buildings.
Mum loves her salmon, so to be in the Salmon Capital of the World was pretty special. When we found the Fish House serving salmon fish and chips it meant lunch was sorted.
Did you know there is such a thing as salmon leather?
There was a tinge of sadness as we departed Ketchikan, as it meant we were on the homeward journey now, but what a beautiful evening.
Our view while eating dinner – not bad at all!
Mum and I wanted to make the most of this last day on our cruise, so we spent time enjoying the various offerings on board, and simply soaking up the views that gently passed by us.
Promenading on the deck. Some people walk quickly to get their exercise, but we just took our time and enjoyed the gorgeous sunshine.
Afternoon tea is served daily in the Dining Room, so we simply had to indulge.
Ask the Captain. This was a great opportunity to get some insight into life onboard, and what it is like to be captain of a cruise ship. Such a great idea, and really interesting.
The evening was stunning, and we just wanted to soak as much of it in as possible, knowing this fabulous cruise was drawing to a close.
A cheeky nightcap on our verandah. Well, the view deserved to be celebrated one last time!
Yes, we avoided packing our cases for as long as possible, but eventually had to face the reality that our cruise was drawing to a close. Bags had to be packed and placed outside our door before midnight, when they were collected by the stewards for sorting and preparing for our disembarkation the next morning. Unfortunately, in placing our bags in the hallway we managed to lock ourselves out of our room, so we had to go hunting for a crew member – in our pjs – to rescue us. The funny things was a woman just a few doors up from us did the same thing at exactly the same time! Apparently lots of people accidentally lock themselves out of their rooms on the last night. Maybe it is a subconscious protest at the idea of the cruise coming to an end!
Before we disembark, let’s take a moment to look at life on board a cruise ship.
Cruising is a very different way to holiday from what I am used to, and I admit I was a little reluctant about how much I would enjoy it. Well, I am converted! Shipboard life is very easy, and as relaxing as you want it to be. There is plenty to eat, drink and do.
There are several dining options that are included with your fare, which means you can enjoy plenty of food without paying anything more.
This has the feel of a large restaurant, and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Expect delicious, well-presented food from a menu that changes nightly. You will also find great service from the entertaining, friendly staff, all of whom also have a fantastic sense of humour.
This is the casual option, is open for all meals and covers a variety of cuisines. Instead of self-serve, you simply point out what food you wish to have, and a staff member will serve it for you. There are plenty of seating options, and waiters will come and serve you your drink of choice.
This is also where you can help yourself to hot drinks at any time.
Top tip: bring a travel mug with you. It is easier to carry a full travel mug back to your room, especially when the ship is gently rocking.
Think delicious burgers, hot dogs and fries. This pool-side option is great for grabbing a casual meal to enjoy on the deck or you can take it back to your room to enjoy.
This is a great option for a lazy breakfast in bed, or a private dinner on your verandah. Ordering breakfast is as easy as completing a form and hanging it out on your door prior to going to sleep the night before. Trust me, it’s a great way to start the day!
A café with a sensational view!
Relax with an espresso coffee while relaxing with a good book, playing a game or just soaking in the panorama unfolding in front of you. There is a charge for specialty coffees and hot chocolates, but if you have purchased a drinks package, these drinks are included.
There are also a couple of specialty dining options, where you pay an additional cover charge.
This was my favourite dining option. It is a fantastic steakhouse style restaurant, and is open for lunch and dinner.
This relaxed setting offers authentic Italian classics, of course including freshly made pasta.
Top tip: plan ahead and prebook any specialty dining to avoid missing out.
There are several bars throughout the ship, each with their own unique feel. My favourite was the Ocean Bar.
It is open for most of the day, and has the added bonus of offering views on both sides of the ship. It is a great place to sit and enjoy a drink while watching the world sail by outside.
The Gallery Bar offers a moody setting in which to enjoy a drink.
Top tip: consider purchasing a drinks package prior to your cruise. Most drinks will be included, and as you have prepaid you will not need to worry about how much you are spending on drinks (as long as you remember any restrictions within that particular package)
There is plenty of entertainment to be found onboard, especially at night. From duelling pianos to cover bands, high-calibre dance to string quartets, most genres of music are covered here.
There are also presentations throughout the day of the more educational and informative variety. You can learn about the Alaskan culture, attend wildlife-spotting and scenic commentaries by the onboard Naturalist, or even attend an “Ask the Captain” session.
Of course there is shopping, a casino and spa treatments available too.
If relaxing is more your thing, there are plenty of spots to settle in with a good book or to enjoy the scenery.
There are the bars and lounges, but also deckchairs and poolside. Unfortunately it was a bit too cool to truly appreciate some spots.
People love HAL’s laundry offerings. There is no self-serve laundry facilities, but there are some excellent laundry service options available (at an additional cost). We took advantage of the “laundry by the bag” option on the first night of the cruise, as we had already been travelling for a while. It is amazing how much washing you can fit in one laundry bag. A popular choice is the unlimited option. It is great value, and if you plan it just right, you won’t have any washing to do when you get home. Winner!
Top tip: Roll your clothes before putting them in the laundry bag. You will fit much more in the bag than if you stuff everything in.
This is one handy app! Install it prior to travel, complete the required information and you will have your boarding pass right there on your phone. Once on board, you can use it to personalise your cruise experience. You can see all activities and plan which ones you wish to join. Shore excursions and dining options can be booked, you can check your account balance, and even use the app to chat to other guests. It really makes life on board very easy.
The staff onboard absolutely make this cruise. I knew we were in for something special when our room stewards, Kampong and Aji, introduced themselves as we were settling in, and already knew our names. Service was always conducted with a friendly smile, attention to detail and a great sense of humour. The bar staff and waiters were incredible. Yes, they looked after your requirements, but it went so much further than that. They know how to make you have a good laugh – often at their own expense – and they are a joy to meet.
Sadly the cruise came to an end with our arrival into Vancouver early in the morning. While I didn’t really want to get off the ship, the disembarkation process is a very smooth one. A couple of days prior, we received a step-by-step guide explaining how it would unfold.
We could select our preferred disembarkation timeslot, and then collect luggage tags that were colour-coded to that time. They needed to be attached to the bags we left out the night before for collection. After breakfast we then waited in a lounge for our tag colour to be called, and it was time to walk down the gangway for the last time.
Our luggage was waiting for us to collect as soon as we arrived in the terminal, and we then proceeded through immigration and out of the terminal.
I am so grateful that I had the opportunity to enjoy this cruise, and especially doing so with my Mum. It was a special experience for both of us that we will never forget. Thank you Holland America Line for a fantastic experience cruising Alaska’s Inside Passage.
Check out my video to see more about this great trip.
To enjoy your own Alaskan cruise, contact Sarah at [email protected]
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